Ryanair offers rock-bottom fares - but are they really worth all the hassle?

We're heading to Slovakia's capital, Bratislava, a convenient central European destination to activate our Eurail pass and slow-travel back to our base south of Rome. But we don't have time to be leisurely in both directions, so we're shortcutting the outward leg with one of Ryanair's famously no-fat airfares.

CHECKING IN: Ryanair staff at Rome's second airport, Ciampino, direct us away from the single open check-in (which can cost an extra 55 euros, or $98, if you're on the lowest fare) to a self-check-in that uses the Ryanair app. We receive our boarding passes, then line up at a bag drop. The airline has a complex tiered fare structure when it comes to luggage. At the lowest fare, "Basic", you can only travel with a bag that fits under the seat in front of you and your seat itself is luck of the draw. The next tier up, "Regular" gets travellers a small under-seat bag, priority boarding, an assigned seat and 10kg of hand luggage. "Plus" allows a 20kg check-in bag, an assigned seat and free airport check-in, but no priority boarding and no overhead locker luggage. The highest level, "Flexi-Plus", gets you a 10kg overhead locker luggage allowance, an under-seat bag, choice of seat, priority boarding, free airport check-in, fast-track security and the possibility to change flights without a penalty. But you lose the 20kg check-in baggage allowance.

THE FLIGHT: We're on a Boeing 737-800 and are boarded in groups. It's not necessarily in order from back to front, though, as some travellers have paid for priority boarding. I'm in 18D. The plane's decor screams "budget airline", with the plasticky hard blue and yellow seatbacks making it look more like a bus. The overhead lockers fill quickly and people walk up and down the aisles trying to find space. It's a bit chaotic, but we take off roughly on time. Once airborne, staff walk the aisle selling scratch-it tickets.

THE CLASS: There are no classes per se, although you can pay more for extra leg room seats, or seats at the front or back. There's even a payment for the "best seats in the middle of the plane". Seats are in a 3-3 configuration and non-reclining with a 30-inch pitch, which is fine on a short flight.

FOOD & DRINKS: Luckily, we've already eaten at the airport, so we don't have to buy anything from Ryanair's menu. A coffee or tea is 3.75 euros and water is 3.50 euros. A glass of wine is 8 euros, spirits 9 euros. There are chips and sandwiches, and bundled "meal deals" are 12.50 euros. All Ryanair flights are cashless.

ENTERTAINMENT: There's no in-flight entertainment or WI-FI. Nor any charging points, so make sure your own device is fully charged if you intend to use it.

THE SERVICE: Fine. Friendly and efficient.

IN A NUTSHELL: If you're keen to save money and are a packing minimalist, Ryanair's a viable option. And while you don't have to pay to use the plane's toilet as per the urban myth, you'd be best not to take the cheap base price advertised at face value.