Heavenly beaches, crystal lagoons - this dreamy escape is right on our doorstep

The air hits you first: thick with humidity, sweet with forest scent and fresh rain. After a few hours in a stale plane cabin, it's a welcome shock to the system. Next comes the journey from the airport, where Port Vila's pothole-riddled roads deliver their own bumpy initiation. These swimming-pool-sized craters demand what local drivers from Atmosphere Tours & Transfers jokingly call "snake driving" - weaving from side to side to avoid being swallowed whole.

Vanuatu doesn't ease you in gently. But then again, what's the point of paradise without a little adventure?

There's no better way to understand a place than to dive straight into its daily rhythms - and here, the Ni-Vanuatu people are unfailingly gracious. Still, first-time visitors may encounter a few surprises.

Take the groups of men casually strolling roadside, machetes in hand. Intimidating elsewhere, here it's a rite of passage and a tool of everyday survival. Boys receive their first machete at 12, marking their step towards adulthood. It's a necessary tool for cutting through dense vegetation, harvesting bananas or cracking open coconuts. For whatever the body may need for its nourishment, the island shall provide in abundance.

Then there's the earth itself, which doesn't always stay still. Vanuatu sits atop the Pacific Plate's convergent boundary, making earthquakes a regular guest. While on the island of Efate, a 4.7-magnitude earthquake rattled Shefa province but was barely noticed by our hosts. Shortly after we left, however, a devastating earthquake did strike Port Vila.

Yet just six months later, the town is buzzing again and tourists have returned. Souvenir sellers are back lining the waterfront, and the city's colourful minivans are cramming into the streets.

For history lovers, the Roi Mata Domain Tour offers a window into Vanuatu's pre-Christian past. Chief Roi Mata, a 16th-century Melanesian warrior, united the island's warring tribes. Our guide, Coco, leads us through UNESCO-listed archaeological sites on Efate and Lelepa islands, with a stop for a swim in Lelepa's pristine waters.

Weather forces us to abandon plans to visit Eretoka (Hat Island), Roi Mata's burial site. But the tour still delivers powerful moments, including a look at the ancient magic stones, where tribesmen once offered kava and communed with spirits, dating back to CE1200.

Sadly, Fels Cave - believed to be the place where chief Roi Mata died after being poisoned by his jealous brother in 1265 - was damaged by numerous earthquakes, including the devastating 7.3-magnitude earthquake last December. So it it's no longer part of the tour.

No island escape is complete without some Insta-worthy water spots. Efate offers two standouts: the Blue Lagoon at Eton and Eden on the Rentapao River.

The Blue Lagoon owes its electric colour to limestone runoff from the surrounding volcanic mountains. Eden, also true to its name, is a slice of rainforest paradise. There are rope walks over the water, guided tours and even mini-golf.

Attempting to float downstream in a rubber doughnut, I manage a spectacular self-dunking when the ring capsizes. But with water this pristine, there are far worse places to make a splash.

By far the best way to see some of Vanuatu's finest features - its clear waters and picturesque skyline - is with a sunset cruise onboard Sailing Vanuatu's Major Tom, captained by Emily and her chocolate Labrador first-mate "safety officer", Bowie.

If the skies co-operate, sailing into the sunset off Moso island is a breathtaking experience, as the sky darkens into a glorious canopy of stars above. The waters between Moso and Lelepa islands have their own stories, too. Havannah Harbour was a key US naval outpost during World War II and local lore says the seafloor is littered with thousands of discarded 1940s Coke bottles, the beverage of choice for US servicemen.

At first glance, The Terraces in Port Vila looks like any stylish boutique hotel - until you step onto the open clifftop balcony and realise there's no railing between you and a sheer drop. A strong gust of wind and a few too many libations could spell disaster for someone peeking too close to that edge.

The Terraces is now closed indefinitely for structural repairs following the December earthquake (it may reopen in December). But Mangoes Restaurant, its culinary heart, remains open - and thriving. Head chef Taru, originally from South Africa, has quickly made a name for himself. His "trust the chef" four-course experience, with carefully matched drinks, is a highlight for anyone visiting Port Vila.

As seasoned travellers know, no trip is complete without a tale of illness abroad. For me, that story began at 1am on my final night - a severe stomach upset we dubbed "Roi Mata's Revenge". If you must fall ill overseas, there's no better place than within reach of Mangoes Restaurant. Upon hearing of my plight, manager Chichi and chef Taru delivered tropical fruit and freshly infused ginger tea to my clifftop balcony - just what the doctor ordered.

Cooling my fever in the infinity pool overlooking Erakor Lagoon turned an unfortunate episode into one of my fondest - and most soothing - Vanuatu memories. Even at your worst, Vanuatu's hospitality shines.

The writer travelled courtesy of Qantas and Vanuatu Tourism Office